Coffee

What’s Brewing: Ethiopia Tade GG Guji Shakiso

/ Pete Denison / Leave a comment

My intent when sourcing beans from Ethiopia is usually to find some luscious red berry flavours in the cup. With tasting notes of red berry, peach and apricot, this coffee from the Guji zone in Southern Ethiopia sounded pretty interesting, and definitely worth a try.

The Region

Information courtesy of Wikipedia

Guji is one of the zones in the Oromia Region of Ethiopia, named after a tribe of the Oromo people. It is bordered on the south by Borena, the west by the Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples Region, and on the north by the Ganale Dorya River which separates it from Bale. To the east is the Somali Region.

The highest point in Guji is Mount Dara Tiniro, and the zone also contains its administrative centre, the town of Negele.

The Coffee

  • Ethiopia Tade GG Guji Shakiso
  • Region: Oromia
  • Farm: Tade GG
  • Elevation: 1830 – 1950m
  • Owner: Tesfaye Bekele
  • Varietal: Heirloom
  • Crop Year: 2015
  • Processing: washed
  • Tasting notes: Peach and floral aroma, clean, med/high white grape acidity, full juicy body, med sweetness, notes of peach, apricot, candied red berry and soft florals with a clean smooth finish.
women-coffee-farmers-in-ethiopia-sort-coffee-beans-to-produce-higher-quality-specialty-725x483

Bean sorting for quality control in Ethiopia (Public Domain Images)

More on the Tade GG farm from Ministry Grounds:

Tade GG is a private, certified organic farm owned by Tesfaye Bekele. The farm is 221 hectares in area and lies between 1830 and 1950 meters above sea level. The landscape is characterised by sharp and rugged hills, ridges, plateaus, valleys and flats creating stunningly dramatic setting. The coffee is pulped, fermented for 35-48 hours, then washed and dried in parchment for 9-15 days on elevated beds.

The Brew

Having roasted the Tade GG for both filter and espresso, each form of brewing was probably on par with the other — that is, very good, although not quite as rich in the berry and fruit flavours I had been expecting.

As a filter brew in the Hario V60 there were prominent flavours of candied berry, with a medium body, and a crisp, clean – though fairly short finish.

Brewing as espresso brought out a little more of the peach and berry flavours, with a fuller, juicier body, and smoother finish. As a flat white or latte, a little  increased sweetness was evident, with some mild caramel flavours peeking through as well.

The Finish

Overall, the Ethiopia Tade GG was an enjoyable coffee, without reaching the heights in rich fruit flavours of neighbouring growing regions such as Yirgacheffe.

My pick would be as espresso, however I must admit to brewing a sizeable carafe through the V60 and sitting back in front of the football on the occasional weekend afternoon. It is September after all.

A Taste of Local Australian Grown Coffee

/ Pete Denison / 2 Comments

IMG_4756My last outing with the crew of Bean Brewding, those staunch advocates of the Brisbane coffee scene, was the Walking Coffee Tour of Fortitude Valley in August 2014, which I wrote a little about here. Now twelve months on, and having seen the “Beans” continue their great run of tours over that period, a recent event over the weekend provided a great opportunity to get involved again.

This time around, a morning of tasting some Australian grown and roasted coffee from Moonshine Coffee Roasters, held at PUK Espresso, at Kangaroo Point — in the shadow of Brisbane’s Story Bridge. Having not had occasion to visit PUK before, I was keen to head along, and also sample some coffee from a local Australian grower and roaster.

Moonshine Coffee Roasters are located (just down the road really) in the hills at Federal, in northern NSW, inland from Byron Bay:

Coffee has been grown and roasted in these hills since before we were born. It’s just been kept a little quiet, the Moonshine way.

I certainly couldn’t think of a better way to start a mild Saturday morning in August than with some Moonshine.

The Coffee

IMG_4750As I arrived at PUK things were kicking off right on time, with a brew of the 2014/15 harvest Natural Process from Moonshine just out of the Aeropress.

I had high hopes the coffee would be good, however was pleasantly surprised with the depth and complexity of flavour. Brewed through the Aeropress, the filter roast on offer was low on acidity, however extremely well-balanced, with medium body and a lovely smooth, creamy mouthfeel – like a velvety coating, which lingered long after the prominent caramel flavour subsided.

Next up, the kind folks at PUK took our orders for a complimentary espresso based coffee which would showcase the Moonshine Blend on offer at the cafe. Mine? A simple espresso of course.

This also gave me a chance to snap a few pics and take in the dry aroma of some of the freshly ground Natural I had just sampled. Nutty and earthy are terms that come to mind, which sometimes can be a little unnerving in a naturally processed coffee, however as I’ve mentioned above, this one was a beauty.

IMG_4766Onwards to the espresso, which was short, thick and dark. Here the taste belied the appearance. I found the espresso quite intriguing. In many ways it was a more concentrated form of the filter brew: mild acidity, medium on body with creamy coating in mouthfeel, with big caramel and chocolate notes. Again, the finish kept on and on. The blend served at PUK contains the locally grown variety from Federal, along with other seasonal offerings from around the globe.

I’ll certainly be back to PUK again very soon, I can guarantee that. It is a calming space, with plenty of shady outdoor seating, friendly staff, and of course great coffee.

So with the morning’s event over, off I went with enough complimentary Moonshine coffee to fuel my Hario V60 filter brews for a few days as well — a nice touch.

The Finish

Another successful Bean Brewding event under my belt, and from discussions on IMG_4767the day with the guys, the local coffee tours will keep rolling on, and there are some new and exciting possibilities also in the pipeline.

If you have an interest in coffee around Brisbane, or just coffee itself, check out Bean Brewding on the web or Facebook for upcoming events, all of which are extremely well supported by local speciality coffee establishments. It is simply a great way to get an inside look and learn from industry experts you may otherwise not have access to in a very non intimidating way.

Thanks to Bean Brewding, PUK Espresso and Moonshine Roasters for an extremely enjoyable morning.

Learning to Love Espresso Again

/ Pete Denison / 1 Comment

In all honesty, I probably never really fell out of love with espresso — perhaps became a little disillusioned would be more accurate. Just over two years ago I even wrote a short piece on my gravitation towards longer forms of brewing in the ever so wittily(?) titled A Short Long Story1. Not an “espresso — I’m done with you” entirely, however certainly an indication of my feelings — or changing tastes as it were — at the time.

Why the sad face?

So what was it that went so wrong?

FullSizeRender 16Nothing specific really — espresso was just… what it was at the time. Perhaps my taste developed and I began to appreciate the more subtle flavours achieved when brewing lighter roasted coffee by filter methods. Maybe it was something else entirely. Whatever the cause, somewhere along the way espresso became a little underwhelming to me — both in what I was brewing at home, and in much of what I could buy in cafes.

Am I now suggesting some sort of renaissance is occurring in the world of espresso coffee? Yes, and no. Perhaps just in my own little corner of that world. Whatever your views on the “third-wave” philosophy as it exists in coffee, there is no doubt things have changed markedly in the last few years in terms of how espresso is served — depending of course on the type of establishment you may be in at the time.

A few short years ago, espresso was generally a short, thick, and overly bitter drink. Again, that was simply what espresso was. More recently, we have entered another phase in Brisbane’s coffee evolution — certainly in terms of how espresso is served, and for me personally — it is an exciting time.

The purpose of this post is not to analyse or enter the debate on what may constitute a perfect or even proper espresso, but merely to outline a few thoughts on why I am really enjoying this method of brewing coffee again — probably more so than I ever have. A key point here is my reference to the brewing component. Of course I enjoy the fact I get to consume a great tasting coffee, however my world has been opened up substantially of late by a greater attention to the process, and I have thoroughly enjoyed the output I am achieving at home as a result.

What Changed?

For me — it was more so an awakening of what espresso could be, which triggered a new-found quest to get better at brewing it — plain and simple. For this I have the hardworking professionals at some of Brisbane’s best cafes, along with the philosophies of some outstanding local roasters to thank for that. In short: greater variety in the coffee being served (seasonal blends and single origin offerings); different roast profiles; and the knowledge of how to get the best out of these coffees by those working the machine.2

Ironically, further impetus for my renewed enthusiasm for espresso also came from my filter brewing. In setting myself up with equipment to accurately weigh the coffeeIMG_4624 and water when brewing with my Hario V60, all of a sudden I had a set of scales to put to use when brewing espresso as well.

In addition, I’d also begun to take a little more notice of the way espresso is approached by quality cafes and baristas, along with reading a little more deeply into the key brewing variables for great espresso. One of the definitive resources in further developing my understanding of brewing great espresso has been Matt Perger’s The Barista Hustle newsletter. I highly recommend subscribing if you have even a passing interest in improving your coffee knowledge and brewing skills.

I should also mention a recent post on the blog of James Hoffmann, which outlines The Coffee Professional Beginners Guide to resources for reading and learning. When I read this post recently, I was pleased to know I had been looking for information in the right places, having ticked of most of the first two categories already in my quest for more knowledge.

My philosophy has always been to “read up” and “read widely” — that is, if you’re an amateur home coffee brewer like myself, what better resources to learn from than those suitable for an entry-level professional. Sure, some may not be relevant and/or over your head (and certainly mine), however you most certainly will gain knowledge you will apply at home — and a lot of it.

Without a doubt however, the single biggest driver in wanting to know more, and learn more, is inspiration. For some time now, I have made my daily visit to Strauss in Brisbane’s CBD, and watched, learned from, and absorbed everything I can (hopefully without getting in the way) from current QLD Barista Champion Adam Metelmann. To say this has been the single biggest factor in changing my way of thinking about espresso would be to understate things quite substantially, and I have been extremely fortunate in this regard.

Closing thoughts

Although there is much to be written on the how of my improved espresso brewing — this post was simply to outline why I have renewed enthusiasm for this form of coffee.

In simple terms, learning more about the process, what I can control, and how to control it, along with the fantastic espresso to be had these days in Brisbane, has opened up a whole new world for me when it comes to one of my favourite ways (again) to drink coffee.

This is espresso folks — truly great espresso — aint it grand?

 

  1. In going back and reading this post, I would hardly consider the Aeropress the most refined brewing device. ↩︎
  2. Please take this particular point for what it is: My amateur observations of some the changes I have seen in the local coffee scene. It is not a suggestion of how roasters should roast, nor how baristas should “work the machines”. ↩︎

What’s Brewing: Nicaragua Jaime Molina – Honey Process

/ Pete Denison / Leave a comment

Flag_of_Nicaragua.svgBefore snapping this up a month or so ago, I had not bought and roasted any coffee from Nicaragua, and was keen to try this offering from Ministry Grounds, my ever reliable green bean supplier. In addition, it was also processed using the honey or pulped natural method — that is, where the skins are removed but the beans are dried with all or some of the fruit flesh or mucilage still present. A good proportion of the coffee I roast tends to be of the washed variety, and I am keen to broaden my experience as much as possible.

The Region

A little on Las Sabanas from Wikipedia:

The Central American country of Nicaragua borders Honduras to the north and Costa Rica to the south, both very prolific coffee producers in their own right, along with other close neighbours El Salvador and Guatemala. Las Sabanas is a municipality in the department of Madriz, which lies in the northern aspect of Nicaragua, close to the border with Honduras.

The municipality itself has a varied climate, which in the lower parts is a little drier, however more humid in the higher mountainous regions, with an annual rainfall between 1,200 and 1,400 mm. Nicaragua has a variety of vegetation, with predominantly pines, coffee, oak, guasimo, eucalyptus, and cedar.

The Coffee

Information Courtesy Ministry Grounds

Coffee: Nicaragua Jaime Molina
Region: Sabanas
Town: Mira Mar
Farm:  Monte Cristo
Altitude: 1300-1450 m
Varietal: Red Bourbon
Processing: Honey

Tasting notes: Chocolate, red berry, juicy, coating, balanced, medium body

In researching a little on this coffee, I came across a little on the producer, and his active role in the 5 de junio collective in Nicaragua:

Don Jaime and his family have shared their coffee processing methods with other members of the cooperative, fostering innovation in the name of quality.  During the 2010/11 harvest, 5 de junio implemented a successful pilot project for semi washed or “honey” coffee based on new technologies learned from Don Jaime.

The full post can be read on the CRS Coffeelands blog – incidentally a site which I highly recommend for great insights into the lives of coffee farmers and farm workers, including many harsh realities that come with such an existence in many of these countries.

The Brew

Terra Bella LatteI’m now through roasting the kilogram of green beans I originally ordered, and the coffee has been roasted for filter, espresso, and added to a couple of blends along the way. As usual, I’d have to say not all of the roasts were perfected — though by the last, things seemed to come together well. The last roast? Espresso, which is what I will describe here.

Brewed as precisely that — espresso, I’d describe it as one of the more balanced coffees I’ve had in recent times. The dry aroma on grinding teases of a little strawberry, however the cup didn’t back that up in any great measure — very subtle to say the least. More so the chocolate notes, with a medium body.

Where it really shined was with milk. My typical morning brew being a 5.5oz single shot latte (brew parameters from this morning were 19.3g dose; 46g yield – split between espresso and the latte; 27 second extraction time).1 As smooth as silk, with more chocolate, a little caramel, and a nice strawberry layer to boot. My pick for this coffee would definitely involve milk, however you prefer it — be that cappuccino, latte, flat white or something a little shorter.

The Finish

Perhaps not one of my standout favourites, however to kick off the day it will take some beating. I’d happily recommend, and buy this coffee again. The more I write about the coffees I roast and brew here, the more I’m convinced some sort of spreadsheet tracking system is called for, lining up roast and brew parameters, and in some way perhaps correlating the resulting outcomes.

Something for another day perhaps, however I’m certainly ready for another brew while I think about it — and for this Nicaraguan — just make it with milk is all I ask.

 

  1. Given I have been looking a little more closely into weighing and measuring dose and yield with my espresso lately, I figure it is worth documenting here, for those who might be interested. Of course my learnings around these parameters are slated for their own post, which I will get to in due course. ↩︎

What’s Brewing: Panama Baru Indian High Estate Geisha – Natural

/ Pete Denison / Leave a comment

You might notice this coffee originates from the same region which has produced my most enjoyable coffee to date — bar none — about which I wrote in a previous post. The reason is obvious of course — I was looking to capture some of that magic, figuring I would either be very happy once again, or find that perhaps I had been spoiled by the quality of that previous experience. My fingers were tightly crossed for the former.

The Region and Producer

Here, I again refer you back to that previous post, which outlines a little about the Boquete region in Panama.

There is also extensive information available (link below) on the Saurez family history of growing coffee in the region (beginning in 1920), and the Baru Indian High brand. A snippet on their philosophy I reproduce here:

Image courtesy Baru Indian High

Image courtesy Baru Indian High

The growth and success experienced throughout the years is due to the enforcement of basic principles when managing the farms: maintaining the same coffee varieties that our parents started growing since the birth of the business, promoting a high degree of social commitment with our partners and employees, applying a sustainable agriculture that respects the environment and investing in technology to constantly develop the latest trends in farming.

These paired up with the special micro-climate that Boquete brings, makes that at the end we can present you a product that is consistently the same — if not better — quality than the year before. This consistency provides our clients with an interesting volume and also a very attractive cup profile of the highest quality.

Courtesy Baru Indian High – About

The Coffee

Courtesy Ministry Grounds Coffee

  • Panama Baru Indian High Estate Geisha – Natural
  • Price at time of writing $AU26.00 for 500g (green)
  • Region: Jaramillo, Boquete
  • Farm: Anselmito Estate
  • Altitude: 1550 Meters above sea level
  • Variety: Geisha
  • Processing: Natural
  • Producer: Noberto Saurez
  • Tasting notes: Light body, sweet and bright with floral notes and a presence of jasmine, cherries, stone fruits, strawberries, dry banana & plums

The Brew

IMG_4114The result? Brewed with the Hario V60, I’d describe it as a very fine coffee indeed, however probably not quite to my initial expectations. It was indeed quite light in body, however not as bright in the cup as I anticipated. As far as the overall flavours were concerned? To me, there was an abundance jasmine, an almost candied-like berry flavour, and yes, a hint of dried banana, as the tasting notes above suggest, though of course I would not have necessarily picked that up myself.

Roasting side note

IMG_4319As you can see from the bullet points above, this coffee was double the usual price I pay for my green beans (that is, the usual per kilo price for a 500g lot), clearly reflecting the higher price initially paid at auction and the quality of the product. In an attempt to do justice to any subtle flavours, my initial roast was aimed squarely at light to medium, with an eye to filter brewing. Without a large amount to play with, roasting was done in two 250g batches to allow for some “correction” in a second attempt if need be.

Yes, that second attempt was indeed required, with a slightly longer development time, yielding much the same results1. I must note here I indeed found the roasting a little challenging, perhaps due to the fact this coffee had quite a large bean, with my small-scale set up not behaving with its usual roasting profile.

The Finish

Overall, I would not deny this coffee every bit of its price tag. Sometimes it would be nice to taste the same crop roasted by a professional roaster, to assist me in determining whether the coffee was slightly below my expectations, or whether my roasting skills resulted in me arriving at this point. Were I a betting man I would suggest the latter is most likely at play here.

In any event, the Panama Baru Indian High Estate Geisha (Natural) is a wonderful coffee indeed, and if you enjoy a brew with flavours a little more complex than your standard “mmm that’s fruity”, then this is well worth a try. To get the full value for your money, perhaps don’t have an amateur roast it in his back yard.

I do however — live and learn. On to the next roast… and cup.

  1. For those interested in further detail, the two roasts were (i) total time 11:00 mins; development 18%; and (ii) total time 10:10; development 21%. ↩︎