What’s Brewing: Kayon Mountain – Ethiopia (Natural)

In the latter half of 2016, a number of fantastic coffees come through my usual green bean supplier Ministry Grounds. This naturally processed Ethiopian certainly stood out, resulting in a repeat order for an additional couple of kilograms to go into the yearly festive blend given to family and friends at Christmas. There may have also been the expectation a little would be “left-over”, which I would have to take care of myself of course!

The Region

In relation to Shakiso and its surrounds, where the Kayon Mountain farm is located — Wikipedia tells us:

Shakiso is a town in Southern Ethiopia, in the Guji zone of the Oromia region, an area known for gold and titanium mining, along with native forests. Guji is bordered on the south by Borena, on the west by the Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples Region, on the north by the Ganale Dorya River which separates it from Bale and on the east by the Somali Region. The highest point in this zone is Mount Dara Tiniro. Cities and major towns in this Zone include its administrative center, Negele.

Sorting station in Ethiopia (Photo by
Sorting station in Ethiopia (Photo Pete Lewis; Wikimedia Commons)

Many outstanding coffees originate in and around Guji, and it is not uncommon to see many pop up in the offerings of speciality roasters as the season comes around each year. Generally, if you are looking for some berry flavours in your cup, just about anything from this region would be a great place to start.

The Coffee

The following information courtesy of Ministry Grounds:

The Kayon Mountain coffee farm is a local family-run enterprise with over 30 years experience in the production of Guji coffees.

The family’s rich experience has included many years of seed selection and nurturing of heirloom local varieties. Two spring fed nurseries are maintained to for the planting of seedlings in the loamy-clay soils of Kayon and coffee is grown in a semi-forest environment under native Acacia trees.

  • Coffee: Kayon Mountain – Ethiopia
  • Region: Guji, Oromia
  • Area: Taro kebele, Odo Shakiso district
  • Altitude: 1900–2200 masl
  • Process: Natural
  • Varieties: Mixed Heirloom
  • Harvest: November-January
  • In the cup: Strawberries & cream, stewed apple, toffee & jam aroma, medium acidity, creamy body with notes of strawberry jam, cherry, blueberry, candied fruits & chocolate with a clean finish

The Brew

Here, things have been many and varied — from tasting and testing both filter and espresso roasts for the festive blend I’ve referred to above, to full immersion cold brewing, pour overs on ice, and the occasional iced latte (given the usual hot summer weather here in Brisbane).

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A little of the annual Festive Blend ready to roll out the door

As I’ve alluded to above, an Ethiopian naturally processed coffee was a good place to start when seeking some berry flavours for the annual festive blend. With this flavour the predominant aim, the Kayon Mountain comprised 60% by weight, with the remaining 40% a washed El Salvador — Finca Patagonia — providing deeper plum notes for the filter roast. For the espresso roast, the remaining 40% was shared equally by the Finca Patagonia, along with Guatemala Ceylan, which added a little more body and chocolate flavours. Overall, the blends were reasonably successful in achieving my aim regarding the overall flavour profiles, and feedback has been positive from those who received some at Christmas.

The Kayon Mountain brewed as a single origin? Equally well received, however I must admit most of the small amount remaining I kept for myself.

When prepared as espresso1, a lovely rich cup resulted, with strawberry and blueberry flavours, followed by a rich chocolate finish. With milk as a latte or flat white, again those berry flavours were at the forefront, and combined with a little chocolate, the overall profile resembled a Cherry Ripe.

Even if purchased with filter brewing in mind, it is certainly worth running through your machine as well, regardless of roast level. I honestly don’t think you would be disappointed.

With filter brewing2, a clean, crisp, full flavoured cup ensued, with flavours of red berries, a hint of blueberry and chocolate with a creamy, medium bodied, lingering finish. Most of my filter brewing was done using a V60, along with kicking off many a December morning in the office with the AeroPress — both providing equally impressive results. As you’d expect, the V60 produced a cleaner, more nuanced cup, however there were no complaints about the AeroPress brew, from either myself, or my office coffee pals Tracey and Andrea, whom I must thank for determining the final ratios for the festive blend.

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Anyone for another?

Last but by no means least cold brewing. Although a couple of 1 litre batches were indeed “cold brewed” using full immersion over 16-18 hours (similar to this method), I’m also partial to hot brewing and flash chilling — using a V60 over a jug of ice. This method simply involves around half of your usual brewing water already in the vessel as ice, with the remaining half off the boil as usual for brewing a V60 (the dose generally being a little higher than what you might otherwise use). If you’re interested and have not yet delved into the world of iced pour over brewing, perhaps use this as a guide.

Depending on your preference, while adding milk to either of these chilled brews is an option, doing so mutes a little of the richer berry flavours. When consumed black (my first preference, with only one test cup consumed with milk), I’d have to say it was definitely one of the more refreshing drinks I consumed over summer. When you have four or five 200ml bottles of cold brew stashed in the fridge, it becomes mighty hard to limit consumption to a reasonable level on those hot days.

The Finish

I think you get the idea.

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Iced latte at the ready

I have been quite taken by this fabulous naturally processed coffee from the Kayon Mountain farm in Ethiopia. Having been put through a wide array of brewing methods over the course of the past few months, it handled all with aplomb.

My preference — despite enjoying it across all forms of brewing is probably by filter, although the bias introduced by these long, hot days of summer probably push the cold brew into first place.

If you are able to get your hands on some, I for one highly recommend it.

  1. For reference, espresso brewing was done on a Sunbeam EM7000, using a 1:2 brew ratio – that is 19-21g dose, yielding 40-44g in the cup. ↩︎
  2. My filter brewing is typically done at a 1:17 ratio. ↩︎
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What’s Brewing: Ethiopia Tade GG Guji Shakiso

My intent when sourcing beans from Ethiopia is usually to find some luscious red berry flavours in the cup. With tasting notes of red berry, peach and apricot, this coffee from the Guji zone in Southern Ethiopia sounded pretty interesting, and definitely worth a try.

The Region

Information courtesy of Wikipedia

Guji is one of the zones in the Oromia Region of Ethiopia, named after a tribe of the Oromo people. It is bordered on the south by Borena, the west by the Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples Region, and on the north by the Ganale Dorya River which separates it from Bale. To the east is the Somali Region.

The highest point in Guji is Mount Dara Tiniro, and the zone also contains its administrative centre, the town of Negele.

The Coffee

  • Ethiopia Tade GG Guji Shakiso
  • Region: Oromia
  • Farm: Tade GG
  • Elevation: 1830 – 1950m
  • Owner: Tesfaye Bekele
  • Varietal: Heirloom
  • Crop Year: 2015
  • Processing: washed
  • Tasting notes: Peach and floral aroma, clean, med/high white grape acidity, full juicy body, med sweetness, notes of peach, apricot, candied red berry and soft florals with a clean smooth finish.
women-coffee-farmers-in-ethiopia-sort-coffee-beans-to-produce-higher-quality-specialty-725x483
Bean sorting for quality control in Ethiopia (Public Domain Images)

More on the Tade GG farm from Ministry Grounds:

Tade GG is a private, certified organic farm owned by Tesfaye Bekele. The farm is 221 hectares in area and lies between 1830 and 1950 meters above sea level. The landscape is characterised by sharp and rugged hills, ridges, plateaus, valleys and flats creating stunningly dramatic setting. The coffee is pulped, fermented for 35-48 hours, then washed and dried in parchment for 9-15 days on elevated beds.

The Brew

Having roasted the Tade GG for both filter and espresso, each form of brewing was probably on par with the other — that is, very good, although not quite as rich in the berry and fruit flavours I had been expecting.

As a filter brew in the Hario V60 there were prominent flavours of candied berry, with a medium body, and a crisp, clean – though fairly short finish.

Brewing as espresso brought out a little more of the peach and berry flavours, with a fuller, juicier body, and smoother finish. As a flat white or latte, a little  increased sweetness was evident, with some mild caramel flavours peeking through as well.

The Finish

Overall, the Ethiopia Tade GG was an enjoyable coffee, without reaching the heights in rich fruit flavours of neighbouring growing regions such as Yirgacheffe.

My pick would be as espresso, however I must admit to brewing a sizeable carafe through the V60 and sitting back in front of the football on the occasional weekend afternoon. It is September after all.