What’s Brewing: Panama Elida Estate Green-tip Geisha

Having recently published a post on generosity, how I came to brew some of this amazing coffee also fits that exact sentiment.

I was kindly given 100 grams or so of this coffee from the award-winning Elida Estate in Panama by current 2015 Queensland Barista Champion Adam Metelmann (Twitter, Instagram). To say I have been pretty lucky lately is somewhat of an understatement.

What follows is a little about this great region, farm and coffee, along with an attempt at describing how the best coffee I have had to date tasted in the cup.

The Region

The Boquete region of Panama is, according to Wikipedia: “in the green mountain highlands of Panama, in western-most Chiriquí Province, about 60 kilometres from the border with Costa Rica. Because of its elevation … its climate is cooler than that of the lowlands. Its scenic location, temperature, and natural environment make it popular with Panamanians and attracts tourists from all over the world”.

Lonely Planet calls it the Napa Valley of coffee(?!):

Boquete is known throughout Panama for its cool, fresh climate and pristine natural setting. Flowers, coffee, vegetables and citrus fruits flourish in Boquete’s rich soil

Onto the farm and coffee itself:

The Coffee

Elida Estate is of course located in the Boquete region of Panama, and lies in the shadow of the active Baru volcano (3475m). At 1700 – 2500m above sea level, it is the highest coffee farm in Panama.

Because of the high altitudes where the coffee is grown the beans are very dense and uniform and they are mild with a medium body, good aroma and high acidity. These estate coffees are considered among the best in the world.

The Lamastus family have been farming coffee in Panama since 1918, of whom three generations continue to run the farm (and nearby El Burro Estate) today.

Sun drying in drying screens (bastidores) has been a Family Tradition.  Robert Louis Lamastus (dark clothes, 4th from left) and Elida (sitting) owners of Elida Estate, picture taken in 1932. Image courtesy Boquete Coffee.

Sun drying in drying screens (bastidores) has been a Family Tradition.  Robert Louis Lamastus (dark clothes, 4th from left) and Elida (sitting) owners of Elida Estate, picture taken in 1932. Image courtesy Boquete Coffee.

The details:

  • Farm Name: Elida Estate Coffee
  • Coffee Name: Elida Geisha Natural
  • International Jury Cupping Score: 91.90
  • Crop Year(s): March 2014
  • Variety: Geisha
  • Process: Natural
  • Elevation: 1800m (farm up to 2,200m)
  • Growing Region: Alto Quiel, Boquete
  • Owner/Exporter/Mill: Lamastus Family

Information above courtesy Stoneworks Specialty Coffee Auction

An interesting detail on how the “green-tip” came to be, from Verve Coffee Roasters:

Verve’s green buyer, Colby Barr, determined that the coffee from the green-tipped plants produced a far superior cup compared to those of the bronze-tipped plants. Subsequently Thatcher Lamastus separated these premium beans, and by doing so, the advent of an entirely new cultivar.

I’d bet on the fact the “bronze-tip” wouldn’t be too bad in the cup either!

The Brew

FullSizeRender 12The coffee Adam so kindly provided me with was a filter roast, and as such I brewed through the Hario V60 drip filter. Although I have been writing these posts and sampling many different coffees over the past few years, the following probably isn’t as technically sound a description as you’d get elsewhere, however I think I’ll get the message across.

This is simply the best coffee I have ever had — bar none.

Opening the bag was like sticking my face into fresh fruit salad, let alone the aroma after grinding (complex fruit and berry notes).

In general, medium in body, with the complexity, richness and depth of flavour the first thing to stand out, yet maintaining a clean, crisp character at the same time. As for specific flavours, the most prominent in my limited range was pineapple, perhaps a little orangey citrus, with some smooth berry notes coming through as well.

If I compare it to some of the better coffees I have had in the past, probably the most noticeable aspect was in relation to the flavour change over time as the brew cooled. Most of the coffees I try routinely change as this occurs, some quite substantially. The green-tip? Not so much, and rather than peak in what is sometimes a fairly narrow range, maintained the same rich complex flavours all the way through — an absolute joy from start to finish.

The Finish

I think it is quite apparent how much I enjoyed this coffee, and remain thankful for the opportunity to have tried it. Reading a little about the farm and family, it is no surprise such high quality comes out of Elida Estate on a consistent basis.

IMG_3309I’d highly recommend a little further reading for the full Elida Estate Story:

The Lamastus Family Estates

Best of Panama 2014 Grower Profile

Speciality Coffee Association of Panama Member Profile

With cupping underway in the Best of Panama 2015 at the time of writing, I am sure more fantastic coffee will be coming from the region — the only problem will be getting your hands on some.

A very special thank you to Adam Metelmann for generously providing me with both the opportunity to try this wonderful coffee, and happily sharing his knowledge about the farm and its owners. Adam can be found serving what I would consider the best coffee in Brisbane at Strauss in Elizabeth St in the CBD


What’s Brewing: Guatemala El Zapote

I have generally always enjoyed coffees from Guatemala, with most having a solid flavour profile, yet enough subtlety to separate one farm from its neighbours – here I emphasise variety – not my ability to name the various farms by taste of course!

The Region

Information courtesy Wikipedia

Acatenango is a stratovolcano1 in Guatemala, close to the city of Antigua, in the central highlands of Guatemala. The volcano has two peaks, Pico Mayor (Highest Peak) and Yepocapa (3,880 m) which is also known as Tres Hermanas (Three Sisters). Acatenango is joined with Volcán de Fuego and collectively the volcano complex is known as La Horqueta.

Volcano de Fuego in the Acatenango region in Guatemala. Photo courtesy Javier Ruata.

Volcano de Fuego in the Acatenango region in Guatemala. Photo courtesy Javier Ruata.

Fair enough to call it a volcanic region I’d say!

The Coffee

Information Courtesy Ministry Grounds

  • Guatemala El Zapote
  • Region/Town: Acatenango
  • Altitude: 1200-1950 meters
  • Area: quarter of one hectare
  • Varietal: Yellow Bourbon
  • Processing: Wet processed; 100% sun-dried
  • Harvest time: January/February
  • Producer: Julio Melendez
  • Tasting notes: classic and beautifully balanced; notes of lemon, melon and stone fruits

The Brew

Having roasted for both espresso and filter, I was able to enjoy the El Zapote across a wide range of brew methods.

As espresso, it produced a fresh, bright cup, demonstrating a little citrus tang, along with notes of honey and chocolate. With milk, it kicked off my mornings really well, with similar flavours working well, however I’d say even a little better when blended with a some Brazil Fazenda Aurea – also roasted on the same day. This blend, containing about 30% of the Brazil, added a little more depth, and brought the flavour through the milk just that little bit more.

The filter roast provided a very clean, crisp and bright cup when brewed with the Hario V60. The body and acidity nicely balanced, with refreshing notes of citrus. Also perfect in an iced pour over, with summer not really wanting to let go just yet here in Brisbane.

The Finish

Whenever I am browsing the offerings from Ministry Grounds, rarely do I overlook the Central America section, with Guatemala always high on my list. These coffees always seem to work really well in blends, yet also stand happily on their own – the El Zapote is another to add to the list.

Unfortunately at the time of writing this coffee is now out of stock, however was purchased from Ministry Grounds for $AU19.55 per kilogram (green).


 

  1. A stratovolcano, also known as a composite volcano, is a conical volcano built up by many layers (strata) of hardened lava, tephra, pumice, and volcanic ash.

 

The World Atlas of Coffee – James Hoffmann

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For such a globally loved beverage, the number of high quality books on the subject of coffee remains disproportionately low. The World Atlas of Coffee by 2007 World Barista Champion James Hoffmann aims to assist in changing that.

Published in 2014 and well promoted through many of the coffee websites I follow, I had yet to pick up a copy due to the assumption my purchase would naturally be an online one and involve considerable shipping costs on top.

Having received a gift voucher last Christmas for Australian bookstore Dymocks, I decided to order a copy through them. Ironically, as me of little faith turned up at the counter of the Brisbane CBD store to simply place an order, I was told two copies were actually on the shelves — so alas I had to return the following day with the actual voucher (a copy kindly placed on hold by the Dymocks staff).

I must admit I do have a few other coffee related books on my to-buy list:

In addition, a recent post on FWx reports on 4 Books Every Aspiring Coffee Nerd Should Read, which includes two of the above, and a couple of others.

So why The World Atlas of Coffee first? One of the main reasons being I gain considerable enjoyment from reading Hoffmann’s blog jimseven, one of the first coffee related blogs fed into my RSS reader after I began consuming more online content with the purchase of my first iPad a few years ago.

Although many posts on jimseven are aimed at those working in the industry, I find it to be one of the most objective, yet also thought-provoking blogs I read. For example, from a post by Hoffmann last September about lessons learned while writing the book:

As a species we like to demonstrate a complete failure to learn the lessons of our history. I confess that I had been in coffee a surprisingly long time before I really dug into its history. It was revelatory, saddening and also inspiring. I’d like to do better, for us all to do better — and I am more driven to that end than I have ever been.

The Book

The World Atlas of Coffee is a visually stunning, hardcover publication bound with an external covering identical to a hessian coffee sack, and is a joy to hold. The internal layout and photography are of an equally high standard.

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Divided into three sections: Introduction to Coffee; From Bean to Cup; and Coffee Origins, The World Atlas remains readable enough, yet informative enough, to provide a broad background on how coffee is grown, processed and brewed, with a large proportion of the book devoted to the various growing regions around the world.

As I have found with my “What’s Brewing” posts, the more you read about the various coffee producing regions, the more you wish to know, and I will certainly be turning to this book for more on that very topic in future.

Part One: Introduction to Coffee

Where the foundations and background are addressed, such as a description and key differences of the terms many of us commonly hear, Arabica and Robusta. There is also an explanation on the often misused terms “varieties and varietals”.

A little on harvesting methods follows, then it is onto processing, where you will finally understand what it actually means when your bag of coffee reads natural, honey, or semi washed — amongst other terms. Sizing and grading, with a little on trading rounds out this section.

Part Two: From Bean to Cup

IMG_4004Topics as you’d expect here — but no less interesting, from roasting, to grinding, brewing and tasting. Home roasting even gets a mention — which, as regular readers will know, is clearly a passion of mine.

There are some nice touches, including a guide on tasting coffees at home, a little on the history of espresso, and how to both assess the results and modify the quality of your next extraction1.

Finally, an espresso-based drinks menu, including why Italian tradition virtually mandates a one cappuccino a day rule (many more espressos then follow of course), and maintaining neutrality on the topic of whether the Flat White was invented in Australia or New Zealand – describing it as “undeniably from Australasia”.

Everything is covered to either get you started with these processes or techniques at home, or allow you to learn and understand a lot more about what is in your cup when next at your favourite cafe.

Part Three: Coffee Origins

Although one-third by division of sections in The World Atlas, Coffee Origins accounts for 50% of the book — and for good reason. The diversity of methods and ultimately taste profiles of different regions around the world is absolutely astounding at times.

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Although we’ll forgive the author for omitting Australia in this section, it certainly deserves a thorough read if you wish to enrich your knowledge about what is behind the flavours you enjoy so much in your African or Central American single origin.

Conclusion

IMG_3996Obviously I have only scratched the surface here, however The World Atlas of Coffee is a superb publication. It is informative and entertaining, and deserves to be widely read by anyone with a desire to learn more about their favourite daily drink.

Arguably a contender for the best coffee table book out there, and one which I have no hesitation in highly recommending.

There remains a lone copy at the Brisbane Dymocks store, or of course it is also available on Amazon or direct from Square Mile Coffee Roasters – of which the author is a co-owner.

  1. A description of espresso brew ratio is explained here – something I have been experimenting with a little more over the past month or so – I’m sure I will post about this at some point in the future.

What’s Brewing: Indonesia Bunisora Honey Processed

Two of the more common taste characteristics I find with Indonesian coffee are those of floral and spice, and their cousins, earthy and herby. What was I expecting with the Bunisora? Much of the same I guess, which I have to say was pretty much spot on.

Whilst I am not suggesting this as a negative necessarily, at times the overall flavour profile was perhaps just a touch underwhelming in the cup.

The Region

Firstly, a little on coffee in Indonesia (from Wikipedia):

Indonesia is the worlds fourth largest producer of coffee, with the island origins micro climate well suited to growth and production. Just over half the production is consumed domestically.

In general, Indonesia’s arabica coffees have low acidity and strong body, which makes them ideal for blending with higher acidity coffees from Central America and East Africa.

The islands of The Sunda Region are divided up between four countries: Brunei, East Timor, Indonesia, and Malaysia, with much of the territory Indonesian.

 

Image courtesy Wikipedia

Image courtesy Wikipedia

 

A great article on Sprudge about Indonesian Coffee would be well worth reading for a little more understanding about the region and its coffee production and processing. From “Always An Exception”: Inside The Rising Tide of Indonesian Coffee:

Since Indonesia consists mostly of smallholder farms, change is bound to be gradual; but this isn’t stopping some producers from stepping up, changing quality, and differentiating themselves. With their continuing effort, we can expect to see more and more exciting coffees coming out of Indonesia.

The Coffee

Information courtesy of Ministry Grounds:

  • Region: Sunda
  • Producer: Small Holding Farmers
  • Varietals: Typica and Bourbon
  • Processing: Honey processed
  • Altitude: 1400m
  • Tasting notes: floral bouquets and sweet spices

This particular coffee from small holding farmers in the region of Sunda is named after an ancient Indonesian ruler Prabu Bunisora.

The Brew

The coffee was roasted as two separate batches, one for filter and one for espresso in my trusty backyard roasting setup.

The espresso roast came out pretty well, a lovely even roast if I do say so myself – I had high hopes for this one. The filter roast? That one got away from me just a little, and therefore ended up somewhat darker than intended. Never mind, it was never likely to go to waste.

With milk in my morning latte, the Bunisora produced a nice full-bodied cup, with notes of spice, cocoa and a hint of honey to the profile. As espresso, again, similar spices, however the floral notes were more pronounced with perhaps a hint of jasmine here? With milk or without, this coffee was big on body, which probably blunted the subtle flavours just a little.

Brewed using the V60 or Aeropress was perhaps a little surprising, as to be honest, some Indonesian coffees I have brewed in the past were more reminiscent of “earthy” as in “forest floor”. Here though, I had written in my notes: black tea (perhaps a little jasmine), floral, and to a lesser extent, earthy with a little chocolate (more so than the espresso roast).

I must admit however, during the couple of weeks I have been sampling this coffee, I began running my filter grind through a fine sieve prior to brewing. To say it transformed the brew is an understatement, however that is a post for another day.

The Finish

As any regular reader of these What’s Brewing posts will know, rarely do I complain about what I have consumed – and I am not about to start now.

The Indonesia Bunisora is a very enjoyable coffee, and what it perhaps lacks in subtlety, makes up for in body, and would also therefore make a solid blending partner with perhaps a fruitier Kenyan or Guatemalan single origin.

Overall, a very enjoyable coffee, and currently available at Ministry Grounds for $AU16.78 per kilogram.


 

What’s Brewing: Guatemala Las Illusiones

It’s been a little while between What’s Brewing posts, with the last one profiling my Fifty K Christmas Blend. Despite this, it certainly hasn’t been more than a few hours between drinks — of coffee friends — of coffee.

The Region

Looking back through my previous posts, coffees from Guatemala have always been kind to me, both roasting well and tasting even better. This offering from the Las Illusiones farm is no different.

I must admit, part of my enjoyment in putting together these posts is also in learning a little more about the geographical and cultural aspects of the regions in which these farms reside.

I’ve previously written a little on the Huehuetenango (of course I cannot pronounce that) municipality in a post on the Guatemala Don Antonio last September, so this time I’m zooming out, and from Wikipedia, a little on this Central American country itself:

Image courtesy Wikipedia

Image courtesy Wikipedia

  • Officially the Republic of Guatemala (Spanish: República de Guatemala);
  • Bordered by Mexico to the north and west, the Pacific Ocean to the southwest, Belize to the northeast, the Caribbean to the east, Honduras to the east and El Salvador to the southeast;
  • Area of 108,890 square km (42,043 square miles);
  • Estimated population of 15,806,675, making it the most populous state in Central America;
  • The capital and largest city is Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción, also known as Guatemala City.

The Coffee

Information courtesy Melbourne Coffee Merchants:

  • Country: GUATEMALA
  • Region: Huehuetenango
  • Town: El Pajal, San Antonio Huista
  • Altitude: 1,200 – 1,500 metres above sea level
  • Variety: Bourbon and Caturra
  • Processing: Fully Washed and sun-dried on patio
  • Owner: Emma del Carmen Munoz and daughters
  • Tasting Notes: Juicy and sweet, with stone fruit, orange and chocolate

Green beans purchased from Ministry Grounds – $AU20.50 per kilogram

The Brew

As time has passed and my palate has somewhat improved, I have drifted away from the one size fits all roast from my humble beginnings, and now roast specifically for either my espresso machine or filter based brew methods (V60, Aeropress).

The Las Illusiones was aimed squarely at the espresso machine, and roasted to suit. Given my roasting is often done in the late afternoon, upon opening the bag a few days later to use, I noticed (in the fuller light) the roast was probably a fraction lighter than what I was aiming for.

As a latte or flat white, the coffee definitely had a subtle choc-orange taste when used with milk. Fruity? Not so much. A medium to full body pushed the finish along nicely as well. Certainly a pleasant way to start the morning.

On its own as espresso, a lovely mix of honey and cocoa was apparent. Less perceptible was the orange, though a hint of stone fruit peeked through at times. A very nice mouthful, natural sweetness and a nice long finish completed the picture. Very pleasant.

A future post will look at a new app for tracking coffees and their origins – Press. For now, a couple of sample images after putting in the Las Illusiones as the first record:

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The Finish

My expectations with most coffees from Guatemala are generally met with results pretty close to the mark, and the Las Illusiones was no different.

For a single origin which works well as espresso or mixed with milk, you could certainly do a lot worse – a very enjoyable coffee.