What’s Brewing – Keeper’s Blend

Keeper's BlendAlthough we are now well and truly into January and the new year, to complete things from 2013, its time to write the about how my Keeper’s (Christmas) Blend fared in the cup. As I mentioned in a previous post, this blend was given to family members, and for the first time, some friends and work colleagues also, which is another reason this review is being written now – to allow time for some feedback from those who sampled the offering.

As an aside, given he provided inspiration for the naming of the blend, it was nice to see Aussie wicketkeeper Brad Haddin’s form continue at such a high level throughout the Ashes series (particularly as the original roast was undertaken after only two tests). In retrospect, the only thing better than this blend was the Ashes result itself!

Thankfully, the feedback I did receive about the blend was overwhelmingly positive, however to allow for the politeness of those who sampled, it would be best to have a stab at objectively assessing the blend myself.

What – Keeper’s Blend (Christmas Blend)

50% Rwanda Nyarusiza Washed Buf Cafe

  • City: Between Butare and Cyangugu
  • Region: Nyamagabe district, Southern Province
  • Washing Station: Nyarusiza
  • Altitude: 1,935 metres above sea level
  • Variety: 100% Red Bourbon
  • Processing: Fully washed and sun-dried on African raised beds
  • Owner: Epiphanie Mukashyaka

50% Kenya Karimikui AB

  • Origin: Kenya
  • Altitude: 1700 – 1800mtrs
  • Crop Year: 2013
  • Varietal: SL 28 SL 34

(Information courtesy Ministry Grounds)

How
Latte; Hario V60 Pour over (Hot and Cold Brews); Aeropress; Espresso

Assessment
Latte / Milk course – Originally roasted with filter brewing (sans milk) in mind, I was quite pleased with how well suited the blend was to espresso based milk drinks. A nice buttery mouthfeel was accompanied by enough acidity to cut through the milk and allow the stone fruit and citrus flavours to emerge. Some chocolate undertones also came through when consumed in this form.

V60 – Notwithstanding the above comments, this is where the blend really shined. It seemed the combination of the more robust sweetness of the Nyarusiza and the brighter citrus acidity of the Karimikui was a winner, maintaining an even level of sweetness from immediately post brew right through the cooling process. When brewed over ice it really was something special.

Aeropress – Thankfully, this brewing method was utilised the least, for reasons entirely unrelated to taste. My Aeropress is at the office, meaning most of my enjoyment of the blend occurred during a relaxing holiday period. On returning to work and running the blend through the Aeropress, I was certainly not disappointed. Though not quite as bright as the V60, a similar sweetness profile was evident, with the chocolate undercurrent balancing things out nicely. If I could no longer have an afternoon nap, then this was the next best thing.

Espresso – With an acidity that was like a slap across the face, as an espresso the blend is likely to have benefitted from a little more body, however was immensely enjoyable none the less. The smooth buttery mouthfeel gave this one a bright, lasting (if not intense) finish.

Conclusion; Know This
In view of the fact this blend was distributed to friends and family, I was very pleased to find it worked very well across all forms of brewing. I’d have to say that of all the blends I have created (read, tinkered around with), this one has probably been the pick of the bunch so far.

Overall Rating: 4.5/5

Serving Cup of Excellence as Espresso

When serving a Cup of Excellence[1] single origin coffee, does brewing by espresso undervalue what ultimately ends up in the cup? If we assume lighter roasted, filter brewed (V60, Chemex) methods demonstrate the subtlety and complexity of the overall flavour profile, is espresso a waste of a good single origin?

Of course the answer is no, as indicated by the enthusiasm these types of offerings routinely generate in the establishments that serve them – Strauss in Brisbane’s CBD (Web, Twitter) sparking my thoughts on this with a Cup of Excellence La Gloria, El Salvador #7 currently being served as a single origin espresso.

Should we not look to explore the many and varied ways a single origin will express itself through different brewing methods? Altering the concentration, extraction time and any other variable does nothing to alter what goes into the brew – that is, single origin (in this case Cup of Excellence) coffee and water. The output being a very rewarding drink in the cup. Will this be different to a filter brew? Absolutely. Ever so fortunate are we in having the choice in how we sample these fantastic single origins. I have lost count of the times I have been blown away by the results achieved with a particular method of brewing, when my expectations had prepared me for a completely different (read inferior) result.

Whether or not you are a fan of the higher acidity typical of a Cup of Excellence coffee, or prefer a lower acidity, full-bodied espresso, with more cafés willing to offer limited runs or seasonal changes in blends and single origins, along with real passion in how they are brewed and served, we as consumers can only be better off.

My La Gloria? A fantastic, brightly acidic cup with hints of chocolate and berry jam[2]. Followed of course by an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe courtesy of the V60 – the joys of variety and choice! My advice, get out there and try these when offered – it may only be once if it is not your cup of … well, espresso, but you won’t die wondering.


  1. Cup of Excellence is the most prestigious award given to a fine quality coffee. The level of scrutiny that Cup of Excellence coffees undergo is unmatched anywhere in the coffee industry. The prices that these winning coffees receive at auction have broken records and proven that there is a huge demand for these rare farmer identified coffees.  ↩
  2. I highly recommend you try this but make it quick – with only a limited amount available, at $4.00 a cup it is sensational value.  ↩

Crop to Cup – Part 5 | Tasting

Photo 22-10-2013 4 25 25 am

Here we go, the finale in the Crop to Cup series, where we sample the end result of the past 6 weeks caring for and nurturing (let’s be honest – processing) our microlot of coffee beans. As you can see by the image above, it was going to go one of two ways. Over this time we have worked through pulping and fermentation (Crop to Cup – Part 1); drying (Crop to Cup – Part 2, and Crop to Cup – Part 3); and hulling (Crop to Cup – Part 4) prior to roasting.

After such a long process, my concern was that I would be somewhat biased about the result. Also, given I had such a small amount, how was I going to brew? After setting aside half of the massive 27 gram (roasted) crop to return to the generous barista who gave me the coffee cherries in the first place, only enough remained for a single brew, whichever method I chose.

After much deliberation, I went with my Hario V60. My rationale being I wanted a method that would allow me to assess the coffee on its own merits rather than being combined with milk, and in the knowledge that the returned beans to my barista friend would be tasted as an espresso. The V60 seemed like a good fit as I would be able to enjoy six or so weeks worth of care and attention for a little longer, rather than having an espresso that was both created and consumed in a flash. Though in saying that, I would also be in for a longer period of disappointment and torture if the resulting brew was horrible.

Photo 22-10-2013 4 30 44 am

So, how did it turn out?

The Whack

What
Jen’s Australian Microlot
Harvest Year: 2013
Wet processed; sun dried
Sorry, no further information regarding the exact origin of these beans!

How
Hario V60 Pourover

Assessment
The section I have been waiting to get to for some time now!

In summary, the resulting brew was fairly ordinary, however drinkable none the less. Overall, it lacked any real body and had minimal sweetness, even as the brew cooled. Underneath there were some very mild floral and herby notes doing their best to be tasted. Accompanying these were some earthy flavours which thankfully did not overpower the brew, though lingered in an aftertaste that was a little, shall we say … strange.

Generally speaking, none of the flavours really overpowered the brew, making it a little “flat” overall. Given the light to medium roast of the beans, perhaps in retrospect I should have roasted them a little darker.

Feedback from my barista friend on the espresso experience was not positive at all. The concentrated form of an espresso shot seemed to magnify everything that was wrong with the beans, particularly the lack of any discernible body. I am told it was quite a flavourless experience.

Conclusion; Know This
In conclusion, although a little labour intensive, processing from the original cherries into something I could roast and then brew was a very satisfying experience. Yes, the taste test above did not reveal anything outstanding, however the brew was certainly drinkable and knowing that both the roast and brewing variables could be tweaked and improved if more of the “raw materials” were available was a promising sign for any future attempts.

I must also note here that I am comparing this with some fairly high quality beans I routinely purchase from Ministry Grounds Coffee, my usual supplier.

Rating : 2/5

If you have followed this 5 part series, thanks for sticking with it over the past couple of months. I hope it has given some insight into small batch coffee processing had you not already experienced it yourself. For me it will be back to the usual roasts and posts. I’m not sure if the labour intensive nature of processing from scratch suits my lifestyle. Then again, my mother did say there is a nice young coffee tree in a pot she is saving until my next visit. Perhaps I am about to become a grower as well…

A View on Coffee Loyalty Cards

An interesting look at the concept of coffee shop loyalty cards came through my twitter feed recently, published by 2007 World Barista champion James Hoffmann (Twitter) on his site jimseven. He is also the Managing Director of Square Mile Coffee Roasters in East London.

They aren’t really loyalty cards, they’re more accurately described as discount cards. They are a fancy and convoluted form of coupons. Great coffee shops tend not to think of themselves as the sort of places that offer discount coupons but that is what loyalty cards are.

Let’s not fool ourselves: no one is loyal because of the card. No one is going to avoid other coffee shops simply because of the fact they carry a single loyalty card in their wallet for their favourite cafe.

I have often wondered on the real value of these systems, and agree wholeheartedly with Hoffmann’s comments, however I would also ask the question of whether anyone would really desert their favourite cafe if there suddenly was no card. If no one is loyal because of the card, I would venture to say no-one would necessarily be disloyal if they were suddenly without the card. I acknowledge I may be quite wrong about this.

Hoffmann’s point being, surely the only way to create loyalty to your cafe or brand is not through a discount programme, the design of which came from “companies with a commoditised product who were looking for a competitive edge” and goes on to point out specialty coffee is a “differentiated product, not a commoditised one”.

This led me to think on how I view these types of programmes, though given my interests in home roasting and coffee in general – am I biased? Could I really see this from the perspective of the average consumer? In posing these questions, there is no suggestion Hoffmann is struck with this bias, and if so, I do not see this as an issue, for it is those within an industry who must look at various issues from time to time and generate further thought and discussion. After all, it is often these types of initiatives that drift towards being “industry standards” without much question or analysis.

Why do I drink where I drink? The people, the quality, the blend, the ambience of a cafe? On thinking further about this, it comes down to two things for me – the coffee and the people. These two components control and influence the entire experience and quality thereafter.

The people
Primarily their passion for serving up consistently high quality coffee every single time I visit. I have waited a little longer at times whilst a barista has said, “sorry I’m not happy with that” and extracted the shot again. Knowing that the shot and resulting drink, whether short, long, with milk or without has been made with effort, and he or she has strived to achieve their best work with every cup is something that will keep me coming back time and time again.

I think those same characteristics then lead on to other facets such as the cleanliness of both machine and overall facility, and level of service in general. I’ve found that in striving to achieve the perfect cup, these cafés are (generally) not prepared to let standards slip in other areas either.

The Coffee
Am I sitting here writing this as an expert? Far from it. Am I an enthusiastic home roaster who blogs about my coffee roasts and brews? Absolutely, and am therefore part of a group of consumers who will take note of what I have described above when deciding where to consume coffee we don’t roast and brew ourselves. I love trying out new cafés, and generally try them a couple of times to assess consistency and perhaps allow for an off day, but everything that keeps me coming back will be evident quite soon in this vetting process.

When I say the coffee, I am talking about the brand, blend and how it is served. One café I faithfully attend every day, serves espresso based drinks with one full-bodied blend. Another I regularly visit serves espresso based drinks with the choice of house blend, or the single origin of the day, along with three additional Artisan Light Roasts served up through V60, Chemex, Siphon, or Aeropress methods – yes, absolute heaven for the enthusiastic consumer. All of these options are served with advice, great passion, and follow-up on how you enjoyed the result.

What’s my point about loyalty cards?
So what am I really trying to say here? Probably my main point is to question whether loyalty cards actually have any effect at all on consumer behaviour. Does a loyalty card really have any power in driving consumer behaviour, or is it something that is nice to have, is a little bonus, but in the end we would all visit our favourite cafe anyway, even if no loyalty programme existed. I can’t help but think the industry as a whole may have overestimated the effect of these programmes in the absence of any real measurable data (remember, non industry person speaking here).

I have always declined to use loyalty cards on the basis that I am, and always have been, happy to pay for a quality product with service to match. It is also interesting to immediately hear discussion and comment when visiting a cafe with a group, if prices are more expensive than what is expected (a discussion for another post) – never anything about loyalty cards. Try as I might, I just cannot imagine people going back to an unclean facility to drink something made by rude staff that is at best unappealing in taste – but then again it happens. As to why this occurs, I do not have an answer. Though to be fair, a cafe exhibiting all of these features would probably not survive for very long – but surely it is not simply because of a loyalty card. Surely?

Upon having my wife proofread this prior to posting, she informs me I am probably biased, and she believes many do use these cards extensively at multiple outlets, searching out the “freebies” that are on offer. So perhaps my point of view is inaccurate in relation to these loyalty programmes, however I would like to think that once these consumers have searched around, when they hit on a great cafe, the quality and service will ultimately trump the card.

Electronic Loyalty Cards
As Hoffmann suggests, newer electronic forms of these types of programmes may provide a way to gain more meaningful data on consumer patterns or preferences. Again, I am not familiar with usual cafe measures other than cups served or kilograms through the hopper per day, so am really not in a position to comment in detail on this. However, the very first loyalty programme I am actually using appears similar to the Harris and Hoole app Hoffmann links to and discusses in his post.

So, why am I using this one, given my comments above? Put simply, it makes the experience of ordering and paying easier, and reduces my wait time during a critical part of the day – on my way to work.

The app itself is called Beat the Q, and sits on the home screen of my iPhone (see left in image below). As the cafe is a very busy one, often a visit on my way to work required a wait that at times probably became a little longer than I would have liked.

Signage at the cafe promoted the use of this app, and after downloading and creating an account, I can now order through my phone as I get off the bus. By the time I reach the cafe, I have only to wait another couple of minutes at most, with my order being placed about 8 or 10 minutes prior to arriving. Upon speaking with the staff, at least as many if not more orders are received through this process than the standard walk up queue during the busy before work period.

Beat the Q

Beat the Q

The bonus? A free coffee upon signing up to the app (top ups via credit card or PayPal within the app), with the tenth coffee free (see right in image above). The app also saves your favourite order, and confirms with a notification when it has been received. The whole process is very smooth and works well. What it provides for the cafe in the form of additional data may be where this differs from traditional cards, though I would have thought similar data could be gained through the register. Perhaps not.

Would I turn off the tenth cup free option if I could? Maybe, but as long as I keep using the app that is a moot point, as it occurs automatically (though I do try to tip at least the value of the free drink over the course of the loyalty period or thereabouts). The only downside I see with this type of system is that it may result in a little less interaction between staff and customers if the entire experience occurs through this type of transaction. I guess only time will tell.

Conclusion
As I have pointed out earlier, I am merely an enthusiastic coffee consumer and home roaster who got thinking on this subject after reading Hoffmann’s thoughtful and well crafted post. My main aim when I purchase from a cafe is to support quality and passion, which ensures I will enjoy what I purchase, and am happy to pay for the privilege – and every cup I consume.

As to the value of loyalty programmes and where they should be headed? That is for those in the industry (such as Hoffmann) to decide, though I believe with further analysis and discussion on points such as these, we as consumers can only be better off.

What’s Brewing #5 – Indonesian Aceh Gayo

Young boy in Guel dance, Gayo country, Aceh pr...

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

It’s nice to review a coffee produced “locally” here in the Asia-Pacific region. This Indonesian Aceh Gayo Gr1 Organic was originally roasted to go in my Three Bean blend (see What’s Brewing #4), however I was obviously keen to assess it as an origin in its own right. Living here in Australia, there are a number of smaller coffee producing countries in the region, however most of my experience has been with those originating in New Guinea. Lets see how this one stacks up.

(Right: Young boy in Guel dance, Gayo country, Aceh province, Sumatra, Indonesia)

The Whack

What: Indonesian Aceh Gayo Gr1 Organic

* Origin: Gayo Megah Berseri estate in the Central Aceh region of Sumatra
* Altitude: 1400–1600 metres
* Processing: Semi washed, sun dried
* Harvest: March 2013

How: Latte, Aeropress, V60

Assessment:
Dry Aroma – Probably best described as spicy/herby with floral notes, mingled with brown sugar

Latte – Does surprisingly well through milk. I would not say there is a lot of body, though definitely enough to give it some punch, carry through the chocolatey undertones and floral notes. Performed better than expected here.

Aeropress – Very well suited to this form of brewing, possibly even shading the V60 in allowing the herb and floral flavours to come to the fore. Made me think a little of dandelion. The only negative here is it probably lacks a little sweetness.

V60 – Smooth, very smooth. Shows more sweetness than the Aeropress however a little less of the herbal and floral notes. The medium body and a crisp finish make this a very enjoyable brew overall.

Conclusion; Know this:
Though assessed across the three methods above, you may note no Espresso. No conspiracy here, I have simply been playing with the V60 a little more (or a lot judging by the dwindling filters), having only purchased this a couple of weeks ago. I had high hopes for this variety given it is a “local”, and certainly was not disappointed. This is one of the best all rounders across the different brewing methods I have had in recent times, and would highly recommend this either on its own or in a [blend](What’s Brewing #4).

Overall rating: 4.5/5