What’s Roasting #4 – Brazil, Guatemala, Indonesia

English: Tz'utujil men hanging around Santiago...

Men of Santiago de Atitlan (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In keeping with my plans to create some tasty coffee blends, I recently roasted what will hopefully bring me closer to achieving a great all round blend, suitable for the variety of brewing methods I use to consume my roasts.

Three separate batches were roasted recently on a Sunday afternoon in the backyard:

  1. Brazil Moreninha Foremosa Natural
  2. Guatemala Atitlan Small Producers
  3. Indonesian Aceh Gayo Gr1 Organic

Fast facts on these varieties (courtesy Ministry Grounds):

Coffee was bought to Brazil in 1727 from French Guiana, by Captain- Lieutenant Francisco de Melo Palheta. Legend has it, that Francisco de Mello charmed the French governor’s wife and she buried coffee seeds in a bouquet of flowers and that is how the cultivation of coffee began.

Santiago Atitlan is a ‘place of much water’ according to historian Jorge Luis Arreola, with five villages around a lake all producing coffee.

The Aceh Province of the Indonesian archipelago’s northern island of Sumatra, was hindered by conflict with the GAM independence movement until 2005. The effect of the Tsunami in 2004 literally sucked the life out of the rebels with estimates of 25,000 killed. The effect forced through a peace agreement that has achieved some stability. By 2006 the area was safe to visit and the high quality coffee industry was accessible again.

One of the primary aims of combining the three varieties above is to power the blend with the deeper chocolate flavours and stronger body of the Brazilian, whilst allowing the crisper acidity of the Guatemalan and floral flavours of the Indonesian to remain. I’m hoping the Brazilian will provide enough body to make the blend work in a milk based drink, and as suggested by Neil at Ministry Grounds:

This is fine drinking as an SO, but is also a great base for a top-notch blend!

Lets hope so! Tasting review to follow soon.

Just black thanks – hold the eggs

Bulletproof Coffee!

Bulletproof Coffee! (Photo credit: estebanuribe)

What am I talking about here? Why coffee of course. You’re telling me you have never heard of whisking your eggs into your morning brew? No – neither have I. Am I likely to try this and write a tasting review? No, sorry, for that one you are on your own.

So why even discuss this here? Probably because a recipe for the above concoction landed in my inbox this morning via Mark’s Daily Apple, a regular newsletter to which I subscribe, written by Mark Sisson, of the The Primal Blueprint fame.

There is a thriving industry associated with the Paleo diet and overall ‘Primal’ lifestyle, of which Sisson is at the forefront. To dip your toe into this realm, a quick read here will just break the surface. To delve even deeper, and go further into the science of the Paleo diet, Robb Wolf’s site is also great resource. Wolf, a former research biochemist, is also an author, with further details on his books available on the site. I have read both books, however will not go into any further detail here, perhaps in another post.

Back to the coffee, or eggs, or …however it should be described. I would encourage you to read the full article, as the following recipes look even stranger than the concept itself:

Egg yolk coffee
* 1 1/2 cup (350 ml) coffee
* 3 pastured egg yolks
* 1 tsp sugar
* 1/4 tsp of salt

or

Whole egg coffee
* 1 cup (240 ml) coffee
* 2 pastured eggs
* 1 tsp sugar
* Pinch of salt

Read more at Mark’s Daily Apple

I will let you make up your own mind on this, however, as Sisson indicated in the original article, the genesis for adding eggs to coffee came about given the widespread success of adding butter to your morning brew. Don’t believe me? Then check out Bulletproof coffee, or do a quick Internet search to see how big this is.

Anyway, as I said above, certainly no tasting review to follow from me. Am I missing out? Perhaps, however this is one I will let slide by as I search for the next great single origin to roast.

 

What’s Brewing #3 – El Salvador Finca El Capulin

Coffee in El Salvador

Coffee in El Salvador (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Since the What’s Roasting #3 post a couple of weeks ago, I have roasted a further batch each of the El Salvador and Colombian bean varieties in an attempt to fine tune and unlock their best characteristics. Acknowledgement must go to Neil Atwood from Ministry Grounds, my green bean supplier for some great ‘real time’ twitter advice whilst the second batch was roasting.

The remainder of this post will concentrate on the El Salvador varietal, with the Colombian coming in the future.

The reason for the second roast so soon? Probably due to my expectations being fairly high as to the likely quality and flavour profile, and whilst the results of the initial batch were good, the second certainly was an improvement (lighter roast). Also, my tasting was done (as it often is) both via the Aeropress and a one shot 160 ml latte, both of which undersold the quality a little. Neil also advised he expected the El Salvador would struggle through milk.

Anyway, on with The Whack:

What: El Salvador Finca El Capulin

  • Origin: El Salvador
  • Region: Cerro Verde
  • Altitude: 1498m
  • Processing: Fully washed, patio dried

How: Latte, Aeropress, Espresso

Assessment:
Dry Aroma – notes of citrus and a little spice

Milk Course – Although it fights hard to be noticed, using this blend in your morning latte definitely does not do it justice. Just not enough body to hold your attention. Definitely a good example of horses for courses.

Aeropress – Definitely better here. The notable acidity pushes forward the citrus flavours, with syrupy undertones on the finish. As usual, the flavours are foremost as the brew cools.

Espresso – Of the three tasting methods here, this is where this variety does its best work (depending on your body vs acidity preference – read further on this below). Extracting this through an espresso machine will give you the best example of the smooth, subtle flavours. The notable acidity brings through citrus type flavours, with a syrup like finish. Given the variety is quite subtle, the concentrated form of an Espresso seems to be the sweet spot.

Photo 21-07-13 8 00 49 AM

Be warned however, if you are after a punch of body, it still won’t be found here – for some this may be a negative, however I don’t see this as necessarily the case if your tastes are not crying out for this. Personally, I like it, though can see when used in a blend with a variety providing more body (which is what I plan to do), may appeal to those who find it a little wanting on its own. My favourite barista (herself Italian) who taste tested, called it as she saw it – needing more body:

…you know, like a good Italian woman, she’s got the curves…, she’s strong, she’s got a lot to offer. Not skinny and light, she’s got the body. She’s got real…

I can’t remember the rest as my mind wandered somewhere else – but you get the picture. Some will just like more body in their Espresso. And evidently their women?

Thinking more on this, I would refer you to an excellent article on A History of Acidity in Coffee, which is also featured in this months issue of BeanScene Magazine. Here it is recommended we should acknowledge and embrace the different flavour profiles in coffee, both the more recent trend towards higher acidity espresso and the more traditional full-bodied, low acid type:

Personally, I’m not against this as a style of espresso as some people may think, but it really demonstrates just one style of espresso.

Conclusion; Know This:
Upon review, the El Salvador is definitely a reminder on the merits of a wide range of tasting methods. As I outlined in a very early post on my reviewing system, the assessment of my roasting results is not based on the standard ‘cupping’ methods used to formally assess taste quality by those more expert than myself. This is a conscious decision, as taste for me will always be a result of how I brew and drink each variety on a day-to-day basis.

Despite recent trends in my coffee drinking habits, future reviews will include as many brewing varieties as I have available to me to avoid missing a method that may showcase the full potential of a particular origin. So, as far as this El Salvador lot is concerned, as an origin, it is certainly made for drinking on its own, in a shorter rather than a longer brew. I am looking forward to experimenting with this variety in some blending to achieve a greater balance between the acidity on offer whilst adding some body to the mix.

Overall Rating: 4/5

A Cold Brew Experiment

Coffee

Coffee (Photo credit: @Doug88888)

The tipping point. Another afternoon of weekday drudgery that could be picked up by the perfect brew.

The cafe that knows your name, your order and seemingly your every need is closed (and good luck to them having been there since 5am). Internally you would try yourself for treason if you go to another. What next? Why is this such an issue? Surely one cup of the instant stuff supplied in the office kitchen won’t kill you will it?

The answer is no but it sure almost felt like it. I have nothing against a large multinational making cheap instant coffee, it is just that in recent years I have not been able to stomach this brand. I’m not even sure why. Instant coffee is instant coffee and you may say its all bad, and I don’t necessarily disagree, however typically I am fine with most brands when that is all that’s on offer – just not the blend ending in 43.

So, I tempted fate and made a cup, consuming half. An uneasy feeling came ever me and the rest of the afternoon was spent feeling slightly ill. Rather than a little boost to my productivity, an afternoon of endless spreadsheets and a full inbox would now be dealt with on a background of vague nausea.

Thus, the tipping point. If you wish to complain then do something about it, or if you choose to do nothing, then shut up and stop complaining – oh and it’s also advisable to never make another cup of that stuff. Complaining done. The action? A task entered into Omnifocus to investigate cold brew concentrates, as a number of articles had also come through my feed reader recently about cold drip brewing and concentrates. Time to fight back!

Cold Brew Techniques

Though numerous techniques and equipment exist, I was looking for a simple way to have a cold brew concentrate made for the next day. A quick search revealed a few recipes:

The increase in recent articles on this topic such as those above, are largely due to the northern hemisphere summer, as many of the recipes focus on using the resulting brew in iced coffee mixes of varying types. However, the concentrate can be used equally well as a hot drink when mixed with boiling water.

My Method

The articles above list varying types of measures in determining the water to ground coffee ratio, which can be a little confusing when comparing articles (particularly whether the weight referred to is fluid ounces – a volume measure, or the actual dry weight). In view of this I went with the simplest recipe from the New York Times article as follows:

  • 1/3 cup coarsely ground coffee in a bowl
  • Stir in 1 and a half cups water (I used filtered)
  • Cover and let stand for 12 hours at room temperature (I refrigerated the mix)
  • Strain (I used an Aeropress) and serve
  • 1:1 with cold milk for iced coffee or the same ratio hot water (and a little more heat by microwave) for a hot coffee

As I have noted above, the exact technique I used varied a little from the original article, however the main starting point being the ratio of coffee to water. Using the Aeropress to strain and filter the resulting mix worked well as the liquid dripped through the filter over about 45 minutes or so, with the plunger only used to push through the last 10% as the amount of sediment increased on the filter paper. Any fine cloth sieve technique would work equally as well.

The Taste?

Though not perfect. For what I wanted? Absolutely spot on.

The first thing you will notice upon tasting a cold brewed coffee is the absence of acidity, irrespective of whether you are consuming it as a hot or cold drink. This particular element of the flavour profile is generated by heating ground coffee in the usual types of brewing. Some people would therefore consider this as a little bland, or “missing something” in the cup. Obviously they are correct, the acidity is the missing element.

The brew is one of the smoothest you will have tasted, and those looking for more ‘punch’, may need to play around a little with bean types, roast level and overall soaking or steeping times, which I plan to do in future brews to assess the results. The varietal used for the current brew was a light to medium roasted Central American origin from El Salvador. I have found with other brewing methods this is a subtle origin with notable acidity, and I am therefore looking to experiment with some South American origins that will provide a little more body for future cold brews.

The method I have outlined above provided 3 cups of hot coffee brewed at 1:1 ratio of water to concentrate and is certainly a technique I plan on continuing to use, because as we all know, few afternoons go by that could not be improved by a decent cup of coffee.

Do I feel smug making my ‘instant’ brew this way? Only when in the office kitchen adding hot water and I see the jar with the dreaded number on it out of the corner of my eye. It may say 43, but I give mine at least an 86–90 out of 100 and definitely think you should give it try.

CoffeeNotes App

Rarely a day goes by these days without numerous crowd funding projects commencing campaigns to achieve their targets. Most of them have not really been my thing, and I have yet to pledge backing to any projects as of writing this post.

Today I have stumbled upon an app that has been in development for the past year or so which is seeking funding on Kickstarter. Development has progressed over this time on the Android version of CoffeeNotes, with a funding target of $20,000 required by August 8, with $570.00 so far pledged. Somewhat tantalisingly, as an iPhone user, the iOS version will be developed after the Android version, when the somewhat ambitious stretch goal of $80000 is reached. I am not sure what happens if the Android funding goal is reached and the iOS not, however perhaps this may change once the app is in (Android) use.

Untitled

According to the developer:

CoffeeNotes performs coffee analysis on a smartphone so you can brew that perfect cup of coffee and share your recipes with the world.
Never before has it been possible to perform coffee grind analysis on a mobile device equipped with a camera.

Part of the sharing features of the app will involve an open API to allow cloud based data collection and analysis for more accurate brew modelling. The unique feature involves analysis of your grind through a photo taken by the smartphone camera. This is best explained in the summary video on the CoffeeNotes site.

On the balance of things, this is something I will support once I decide on which level to pledge. Should you back this too? That is a question only you can answer, however it is worth a look (with a nice summary video) if you are enthusiastic about your coffee.